Tarun Tahiliani and Whitcomb & Shaftesbury collaborate to bring forth traditional Indian wear that shall have fine tailoring of a custom made suit. The Savile Row based company is known for its bespoke services, master-cutters and tailors. Adding this expertise to Indian design, the sherwanis, bundis and bandhgalas shall now fit like a glove.
The designs have reached perfect unison; unusual single-breasted froggings with a tailcoat back – the handmade bespoke sherwani symbolizes both Indian roots and British style.
The asymmetric sherwani in merino wool with a zardozi embroidered collar is a luxe, modern take on the stifling arcane version. The streamlined tailoring provides a leaner statuesque quality and the lush shade of rust red gives it flair and elegance at the same time.
Classic tuxes and bandhgalas in super fine cashmere and the finest of satins provide understated yet established elegance. Black satin bundi with textured velvet flap and metal chain detail paired with crepe dhoti is a new benchmark in men’s fashion and sartorial identity.
The fabrics used are directly sourced from Holland & Sherry and Scabal. The former has been a source of premium woolen cloth for more than 150 years and a favourite of the tailors at Savile Row.
Scabal has been providing and innovating with fabric since 1938 from its own mill in Yorkshire and has the distinction of making the “finest wool ever made or softest on the planet.” The finest cloth is then treated at the hands of the finest tailors in the world. Thirty five measurements are recorded that even take your posture into account, on the basis of which the fabric is cut ‘one way by hand’ and a ‘baste’ or rough model is prepared for your first fitting.
The attention to detail is obsessive: lapels and collars are hand padded; edge tapes, hems and linings are felled by hand. Button holes are hand stitched with a silk thread to ensure longevity. The shoulder pads are kept minimal, not to provide a certain silhouette but to lift the coat off the shoulders.
A large sleeve is fitted into a small armhole that moves with the rotatory cuff; the detail of making a jacket is almost like recreating the anatomy. The fit is like second skin and it moves like one, stretching and contracting with the movement of the body as it has been custom-made to fit the contours of your body alone.
The buttons used on the traditional ensembles are real jadau or vintage sourced by the Indian side of the collaboration. Even the pocket squares available with each ensemble are pre-made in a puff fold freeing from the hassle of learning a three-point fold from a three-stair fold.
The colour palette ranges from moody black and white with a surprise of moss green and rust. Luxurious brasso velvets, indulgent silks and satins make up this bespoke offering. For aficionados of traditional clothing who do not want to compromise on either the fit and finish of western wear or the grandeur and opulence of Indian garb, this collection has revised Indian style on par with international fashion and leaves no stone unturned to deliver undiluted luxury.