‘Mohenjo Daro’ by Anavila Sindhu Mishra– Anavila Sindhu Mishra’s collection ‘Mohenjo Daro’ took the spectators back to an era of sheer magnificence at the fashion week. She brought back the various strands of life from a beautiful bygone time. Taking direction from various objects found at the excavation such as the culture, regional artifacts and the art remains, Anavila painted a beautiful visual picture for the collection. She was also inspired by her muse Konkona Sen Sharma, who portrayed this era gracefully.
The major highlight of this compilation was the handiwork of treatments done on hand-woven textiles. The fabrics used were linen, cotton and silk, which were dominant at that time. Stitching techniques like extra weft weaving, block printing and ikat gave prominence to the Indus motifs. Over-dyeing and printing had also been used to create an aged, rustic look. Ajrak printing, featured at Mohenjo Daro, was an important aspect of the collection. The becoming creations had gorgeous colours like mehendi green, gold metallic sheens, off white, navy blues and rust reds.
Other garments that stood out were the cutout sari with the rust/red blouse and garment detailing, which included line texturing in the form of embroidery and elephant prints along with a tan-belted sari that really brought out the visual appeal of the textile. To add to the ethnicity of the entire collection the accessories were made of beaten metal, terracotta and leather.
‘Chavi’ By Purvi Doshi- Purvi Joshi showcased her creative side at the fashion week by bringing in harmony between two cultures for her collection ‘Chavi’. Inspiration was drawn from the ever-famous African Aztec prints, which are trendy all over the world. Purvi converted these prints to turn them into a desi offering of glamorous fusion wear. This change from international to hometown material was created with brilliant merging of the prints into mirror embroidery with subtlety of Kutch and Gujarat beaming through.
The garments looked melodious in sound hues of saffron, blue, chili red, green and white that effortlessly flowed into the silhouettes. The handwork on the garments was the reflection of a dying art of mirror work by the rural crafts-people who were struggling to keep this tradition afloat.
This collection had maxis, saris paired with short kurtas along with flared blouses, tie and dye skirts as well as long kurtas with flared pants. This collection had variety of detailing like pleats, layering, gather and keyholes. It was colourful and eclectic just like its mirror work. Other enchanting ensembles were the anarkalis that were rich in blue and had colourful edging details. Rajasthani bangles were also a major statement making accessory style that was adopted to complete the collection. Sonal Chauhan was the showstopper for her collection.
‘Separe’ by Sashikant Naidu– Sashikant Naidu brought the limelight onto 21st century women with his collection ‘Separe’, which is French for ‘Separates’ at the fashion week. The underlying idea was to create separate pieces that would look divine with already possessed items in every lady’s wardrobe.
A wide range of dresses, jackets, skirts, scarves, stoles to dupattas, lehengas, saris and blouses was the essence of the collection. The brilliance of a collection such as this would only stand out by using silks, Dupion, fletcher, ikat and khadi along with crepes. The look commenced with light, layered and textured outfits, all made in khadi with embellishments such as handmade accessories and tribal jewellery to bring out the rawness of idea.
Hues like metallic grey, flower prints, lime green, emerald green and rust reds had exquisite detailing like pom-poms and pleats. Majority of the colours of this compilation were in shades of red, green and blue dawned on silhouettes like body-fitted maxi dress, sleeveless high low cardigan, sequined edged kurtas and asymmetrical handkerchief maxi skirts. Another ensemble that stood out was the midi dress, which was layered with box pleats and had long flared sleeves. A technique of hand painting was used with only eco-friendly paints and was contemporary for the style and silhouettes of the collection. Adding just a hint of shimmer in the embroidery, Sashikant ensured that the artisans incorporated the temples of South India and embodied nature in the designs. Bollywood star Shriya Saran was in a polished emerald green blouse with a red sari along with exaggerated nose jewellery, which was a perfect ending to the radiant collection.