The Bulgari High Jewellery Collection is a collection of exquisitely crafted jewels, created on the basis of drawings especially developed for gemstones of extraordinary quality. The essential element for a piece of high jewellery is the stone, or set of stones, around which it is composed. A profound knowledge of gems and cuts is therefore an indispensable skill for developing a collection of high jewellery, and in this area Bulgari boasts a tradition of excellence that goes back more than a century. Searching the world market for gems of the right cut and colour requires time and great expertise from Bulgari’s gemologists. And then there is the talent and taste required from Bulgari’s designers to compose these magnificent stones and finalise the design. At last, the master goldsmiths create perfectly crafted gold settings, links and clasps giving every Bulgari jewel their exceptional suppleness.
Each type of gemstone has its geographical origins: the most prized emeralds, for example, come mostly from Colombia, though by now they are rare even there. The finest sapphires are found in Kashmir, while the main producer is Sri Lanka, source of the majority of the sapphires bought by Bulgari, which has become one of the world’s largest buyers in terms of overall carats. The best rubies come from Myanmar, and though Bulgari has never acquired them directly from that country but rather on the international market, it nonetheless requires that suppliers can guarantee the provenance of its rubies. As for diamonds, Bulgari purchases cut stones only and collaborate continually with selected suppliers in countries that comply with the Kimberly Process.
The signature feature of Bulgari style, immediately recognizable all over the world, lies in its use of coloured stones. Since the 1960s – the decade in which Bulgari definitively broke with the French school to establish its own style – Bulgari jewels have distinguished themselves for their surprising, unprecedented combinations of precious and semi-precious coloured stones.
The use of semi-precious stones like tourmaline, amethyst, citrine, coral, pearls and garnets, often juxtaposed with rubies, emeralds and sapphires, enabled Bulgari to draw from a much broader palette of colours than usual, including new and unexpected hues like purple, pink and orange and a whole range of deep reds, greens and yellows. The result is a practically infinite number of possible chromatic combinations, from the most vividly contrasting to the most delicately nuanced.